Dutchess County
Home Composting
Manual

Dutchess County
Environmental Management Council


Welcome to Composting

What is composting?

Composting occurs nearly everywhere! Leaves drop from trees. Grass clippings are left after mowing the lawn. Plants and animals die. These are some examples of organic materials which, over time, break down or decompose. The rich, dark, soillike material that results is called compost.

Composting takes place when tiny living things, called microorganisms, work to break down organic material. Microorganisms include such things as bacteria and fungi. Animals living in the soil help microorganisms break down organic materials. Worms and pill bugs are examples of soil animals that help change organic wastes into compost.

As microorganisms and soil animals turn organic materials into compost, they use it as food. The organic materials provide nutrients for growth and activity. Eventually, these nutrients are returned to the soil, to be used again by trees, grass, and other plants. This is nature’s way of composting and recycling!




Produced by:
 Dutchess County Environmental
Management Council













Section 1
FACTORS AFFECTING THE COMPOSTING
PROCESS


All natural organic material eventually decomposes. The length of the composting process depends on a number of factors:

♦ Carbon and nitrogen contents of the material
♦ Amount of surface area exposed
♦ Moisture
♦ Aeration
♦ Temperatures reached during composting

Mixing Browns and Greens
When combining materials to make compost, its important to understand the carbonto-nitrogen (C:N) ratio of organic wastes. Simply, all organic materials are made up of the element carbon and may also contain some percentage of the element nitrogen. Composting microorganisms and soil animals digest carbon for energy and ingest nitrogen for reproduction. Given a proper balance of carbon to nitrogen, microorganisms can decompose compost piles quickly. The ideal C:N ratio for composting is 30 parts carbon to one part nitrogen (30:1). Table 1 lists carbon-tonitrogen ratios for materials commonly included in compost piles.

      

Most materials available for composting do not fit this ideal 30:1 ratio, so different
materials must be blended to create a fast decomposing pile. In general, coarse, dried-out material contains very little nitrogen. For example, oak leaves and wood chips are high in carbon and decompose slowly. Grass clippings have a low C:N ratio and decompose quickly. The presence of nitrogen in compost piles ensures that temperatures will be high enough for the process to work efficiently and that decomposer organisms have a nutrient source for reproduction.

IN SIMPLER TERMS, ORGANIC WASTES WITH HIGH C:N RATIOS ARE
“BROWNS”
AND WASTES WITH LOW C:N RATIOS ARE “GREENS.”

Although proper blending of “Browns” to “Greens” is necessary, it can be difficult to blend materials to achieve this ratio exactly. For example, the C:N ratio data included in Table 1 were calculated on a dry-weight basis. An estimation of the dry weight and the C:N ratio requires knowledge of the moisture content of the materials being used. Home composters seldom have the equipment, or the inclination, to measure moisture contents. Also, the C:N ratios in Table 1 are only estimates. For instance, brown grass clippings from a dry lawn will have less nitrogen than lush, green clippings. Clippings from lawns that have been abundantly fertilized will have even higher nitrogen content.

BLENDING OF MATERIALS TO ACHIEVE A WORKING COMPOST PILE IS THE ART OF
COMPOSTING. WITH CREATIVITY AND CARE, HOME COMPOSTERS WILL DEVELOP THEIR
OWN METHODS THAT RESULT IN GOOD MIXTURES FOR COMPOSTING!


Table 1
CARBON TO NITROGEN RATIOS FOR SELECTED
MATERIALS (BY WEIGHT)

MATERIAL C:N
GREENS (High Nitrogen)
Vegetable wastes 20:1
Grass clippings 12-25:1
Cow manure 20:1
Horse manure  25:1
Horse manure with litter 30-60:1
Poultry manure (fresh) 10:1
Poultry manure (with litter) 13-18:1
Pig manure  5-7:1


BROWNS (High Carbon)
Foliage (leaves) 30-80:1
Corn stalks 60:1
Straw 40-100:1
Bark 100-130:1
Paper 150-200:1
Wood chips and sawdust 100-500:1



Surface Area/Particle Size
Bacteria work to decompose waste at the surface of each particle in the compost pile. The surface area of material to be composted can be increased by breaking it into smaller pieces, or by other means. An increased amount of surface area allows the microorganisms to digest more material, multiply faster, and generate more heat. Although it is not essential to break materials into small pieces for composting, it does accelerate the process. This may be important when space is limited. Materials can be chopped, shredded, split, or bruised to increase their
surface areas. A wide range of shredders and chippers is available, from
large models used by tree services to small, handcranked types. For many
yard wastes, cutting
materials with pruning shears or with a hatchet on a
piece of plywood is adequate. Even some
pounding with a hammer will
create entry points
for decomposer organisms. An easy way to shred
fallen leaves is to mow them before
raking. The shredded leaves can then
be
collected directly with a mower-bag attachment.




Aeration
Aeration allows fresh air to circulate throughout the pile. Rapid aerobic decomposition can only occur in the presence of sufficient oxygen. Aeration occurs naturally when air warmed by the compost process rises through the pile, drawing in fresh air from the surroundings. Wind also stimulates aeration. Porosity and moisture content affect air movement through the compost pile.

Porosity refers to the spaces between particles in the compost pile, or basically the
surface area contained within the pile. If the material is not saturated with water, these spaces are partially filled with air that can supply oxygen to decomposers and provide a path for air circulation. As the material becomes water saturated, the space available for air decreases.

Compacting the compost pile reduces its porosity. Excessive shredding can also impede air circulation by creating smaller particles and pores. Adding coarse materials, such as leaves, straw, or cornstalks, can increase the pile porosity, although some coarse materials will be slow to decompose. As the compost process proceeds, the porosity decreases, restricting aeration. Regular mixing of the pile, referred to as turning, fluffs up the material and increases its porosity. Turning enhances aeration in a compost pile. For home composting, turning is easily done using a pitchfork or shovel.

Moisture
Decomposer organisms work best in piles that contain the proper amount of moisture. The “squeeze” test is an easy way to gauge the moisture content of composting materials. The material should feel damp to the touch, with just a drop or two of liquid
expelled when the material is tightly squeezed in the hand. If the pile becomes too wet, it should be turned and restacked. This allows air to circulate back into the pile and loosens the materials for better draining and air-drying. Adding dry material, such
as straw or sawdust, can also remedy an excess moisture problem.

If the pile is too dry, it can be watered with a trickling hose. A more effective practice is
to turn the pile and rewet materials in the process. Certain materials will shed water or adsorb it only on their surface. Materials, such as, dead leaves, sawdust, hay, straw, dried weeds, and vegetables must gradually be moistened until they glisten. Then the squeeze test should be used to evaluate the moisture content.

A moisture content of 40-60 percent provides adequate moisture without limiting
aeration. If the moisture content falls below 40%, the bacteria will slow down and may become dormant. When the moisture content exceeds 60%, nutrients are leached (lost), air volume is reduced, odors are produced, and decomposition is slowed.

Temperature
As the microorganisms digest and multiply they will generate heat, which will increase the temperature of the compost pile. Pile temperatures between 90°F and 140°F (32° –60°C) are desirable, and indicate rapid composting. Temperatures greater than 140°F (60°C) reduce the activity of many of the most active organisms.
Some compostors decide to monitor the temperature of the compost heap.

A temperature probe or a soil thermometer can be used to keep track of
pile
temperatures. While home composters may not be interested in
monitoring pile
temperature, a temperature probe is excellent
for demonstration and useful for serious composters. Although
this method is not
necessary, it is helpful in making decisions
as
to ways to control the compost pile. For instance, a drop
in temperature after a peak
may indicate the need to turn the
pile to
invigorate microbes with air and a new food source.

 





Section 2
Making and Maintaining a Compost Pile

This section discusses materials, construction, maintenance, and troubleshooting for a compost pile. These principles can be applied to the turning units, holding units, and heaps that were defined in the previous chapter. Turning a compost pile regularly can yield compost in one to two months with the right combination of materials and moisture content. Without turning, decomposition takes six months to two years. Excellent quality compost can be made either way. When selecting a composting method, consider volume of organic waste produced around the home and yard, need for finished compost, and your time available for maintenance.

Materials
Almost all natural, organic material will compost, but not everything
belongs in the compost pile. Some wastes attract pests; others
contain pathogens that can survive the compost process, even if
the pile gets hot. Table 2 divides materials according to whether or
not they cause these types of problems.




Table 2
MATERIALS THAT SHOULD AND
SHOULD NOT BE IN A COMPOST PILE

YES   NO  
Aquatic weeds Leaves Butter
Mayonnaise
Bread Paper Bones Meat
Coffee grounds Sawdust Cat manure Milk
Egg shells Straw Cheese Oils
Evergreen  needles Sod Chicken Peanut butter
Fruit
Tea  leaves Dog manure Salad dressing
Fruit peels and rinds Vegetables   
Fish scraps  Sour cream
Garden wastes Wood ash Lard Vegetable oil     
Grass clippings Wood Chips



To avoid problems with odors, neighborhood animals, and other pests do not compost fatty food wastes, such as meat or bones. To break down properly, animal fats must be composted at high temperatures over an extended period of time. Never add cat and dog manure as it can contain harmful pathogens that are not always killed by the heat of composting. Manure may also attract cats and dogs to the pile.

Plants harboring diseases, or suffering severe insect infestations, should not be added to the compost pile. Certain damaging weeds, including morning glories, buttercups, and some grasses with complex root systems (such as quack grass), may not be killed if the pile does not heat up. Piles containing these types of weeds must be turned to encourage the high pile temperatures that will kill them.

Another consideration in choosing materials to go into the compost pile is the time they
need to break down. Woody materials, such as wood chips, branches, and paper, may take up to two years to break down unless they are finely chipped or shredded. Their high C:N ratios indicate that they require a lot of nitrogen to decompose, so they may slow the decomposition of other materials existing in the compost heap. Other materials that break down slowly include; corn cobs, husks, and stalks, sawdust, straw, apple pomace, and some nutshells. These materials should be cut into small pieces to increase their surface areas and mixed with “Greens” like fresh grass clippings.

MATERIALS THAT BREAK DOWN SLOWLY SHOULD BE MIXED WITH PLENTY OF “GREENS” TO
GET THE PILE COOKING. IF A GOOD SOURCE OF “GREENS” IS NOT AVAILABLE, HIGH C:N
RATIO WASTES SHOULD BE USED AS MULCHES.

While materials such as wood chips and straw break down slowly, they also are bulking agents that improve the pile structure, allowing air circulation. When composting dense, high-nitrogen materials, such as manure, the addition of a bulking agent may be required to facilitate the process.

The art of composting is discovering the mix of materials that will provide the best environment for the compost process. Mixing materials of different sizes and textures helps to provide a healthy and well-drained compost pile. Diverse material also helps maintain the right balance of organics for rapid decomposition.

Food Wastes
In communities where residents pay for garbage disposal by the bag, composting your kitchen scraps, along with recycling of bottles and cans, is a way to save money on disposal. However, care must be taken when home composting kitchen scraps, especially on small lots where pest or odor problems can offend your neighbors. For best results do the following:

•   ONLY COMPOST FRUIT, VEGETABLE, BREAD OR GRAIN WASTES AS THESE ITEMS BREAKDOWN QUICKLY.

•   ALWAYS BLANKET OR COVER FOOD WASTES AMONG AN EQUAL AMOUNT OF “BROWNS”
OR WORKING COMPOST. THIS IS ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT WHEN STARTING A NEW PILE AS IT WILL HELP HIDE THE SMELL OF “FRESH FOOD” FROM NEIGHBORHOOD ANIMALS.

•   NEVER LEAVE FOOD WASTE UNCOVERED ON TOP OF YOUR COMPOST PILE, AS THIS
WILL ONLY ENCOURAGE PESTS BY GIVING THEM A CONVENIENT MEAL.

•   FOR SMALL YARDS, CONSIDER AN “ENCLOSED” COMPOST UNIT.

Sod can be incorporated into a compost pile; it can also be composted in a holding system with or without a structure. Large quantities of fresh, stripped sod should be piled with the roots up and grass down, to keep the roots from continuing to grow.
The sod should then be wetted thoroughly and covered with a tarp, to keep light out. A large pile of sod may take one to three years to decompose completely. Small quantities of sod will decompose more quickly if broken into small pieces.

Composting Grass Clippings Sprayed with Pesticides
Some gardeners are concerned about composting grass clippings that have been treated with pesticides. Table 3 lists the persistence of some common lawn herbicides in soil. Composting, as an accelerated decomposition process, biodegrades many compounds faster that soil degradation. If yard waste has been composted at least one year, pesticide residues should not be a problem when the compost is used.

Table 3
PERSISTENCE OF SOME COMMON PESTICIDES IN SOIL

COMMON NAME TRADE NAMES
LONGEVITY IN SOIL
(MONTHS)
Benefin Balan, Balfin 4-8
DCPA Dacthal 4-8
Bensulide Betasan, Prefar 6-12
Glyphosate Roundup, Kleenup <1
2,4-D (many formulations) 1-2
MCPP (many formulations) 1-2
Dicamba Banvel 3-12
 Source: Rosen, et. Al., 1988.

Additives
Inoculants, activators, and lime are compost pile additives. Inoculants are dormant microorganisms; activators contain sugar or a nitrogen source, such as ammonium sulfate; and lime increases compost pile pH. Inoculants are rarely needed, since
earth, leaves, kitchen scraps, and finished compost already contain ample bacteria that can work readily on their own. Other nutrients added through the application of organic or chemical fertilizers will have little effect on the composting process. Table
4 lists estimated amounts of particular nitrogen sources that should be added to high C:N ratio materials.

THE ONLY ACTIVATOR THAT MAY BE NEEDED IS A NITROGEN SOURCE, SINCE
NITROGEN IS USUALLY THE LIMITING NUTRIENT. NITROGEN ACCELERATES
DECOMPOSITION IF THE MATERIALS TO BE COMPOSTED DO NOT INCLUDE A MATERIAL
WITH A LOW C:N RATIO, SUCH AS GRASS CLIPPINGS (SEE TABLE 1).

 

Table 4
AMOUNTS OF VARIOUS NITROGEN SOURCES NEEDED TO
APPLY 0.15 POUNDS (2.4 Ounce) NITROGEN

Nitrogen Source
% Nitrogen
Ounces to Apply
Ammonium nitrate 33 7.0
Calcium nitrate 15 16.0
Urea 46 5.2
Dried blood 12 20.0
Fish meal 10 24.0

 
During the initial stages of decomposition, the compost pile produces organic acids and the pH may drop. However, since composting organisms perform best at a pH between 4.2 and 7.2, it is best not to add lime to adjust pH. Adding lime converts ammonium nitrogen to ammonia gas, creating an odor problem. As the compost matures, pH will rise, typically to between 6.0 and 8.0 for finished compost.

Location
A good location is helpful for a successful compost pile. Direct sunlight in the summer dries the pile. Exposure to high winds can dry and cool the pile, slowing the decomposition process. The pile location should not interfere with lawn and garden activities. Water should be readily available. There should also be enough space for temporary storage of organic wastes. Good drainage is important; otherwise, standing water could impede the decomposition process. The compost pile should not be located against wooden buildings or trees; wood in contact with compost may decay.

Volume
A pile should be large enough to hold heat and small enough to admit air to its center. As a rule of thumb, the minimum dimensions of a pile should be 3 feet x 3 feet x 3 feet (1cubic yard) to hold heat. The maximum dimension to allow air to the center of the pile is 5 feet x 5 feet x any length.

If space is a limiting factor, the pile sides should be insulated so that the higher temperatures can be maintained in a much smaller volume. Smaller, commercially available units can be insulated with foam board. Piles larger that 5 feet tall and wide may need to be turned to prevent their centers from becoming anaerobic. As the material decomposes, the pile will become smaller. A yardstick can be used to keep track of, or demonstrate, volume reduction.

Pile Construction
Compost piles can be constructed by adding stockpiled material in batches or by placing materials in the piles as they become available. The batch method accelerates the composting process if the combined materials have the right C:N ratio and if the materials are mixed. Guidelines for constructing a compost pile are given in Section 3.



Pile Maintenance

Maintenance of the compost pile involves turning the pile and adding water to maintain conditions conducive to the composting process. If the pile is not turned, decomposition will occur, but at a slower rate. The following maintenance procedure will yield compost in the shortest time.

In a pile constructed according to the method described in Section 3 the pile temperature will increase rapidly and soon reach about 110oF. After about a week, check to see if the pile is warm. If not try adding more “Greens.” Once the pile has heated, it should be turned to aerate and any compacted material should be loosened. Then the pile should be reconstructed; material previously on the top and sides of the pile should be moved to the center to provide microorganisms fresh food. The pile should then reheat as the re-energized microorganisms digest wastes and reproduce.

At the second turning (after about another week), the material should be a uniform coffee-brown color and moist. The relatively undecomposed outer layer can be scraped off and turned back in to the center of the pile. The center material should be spread over the outer layer of the reconstructed pile. By the third turning, the moisture content should be checked using the squeeze test described earlier. Water should be added, if necessary.

Simple carbohydrates (“Browns”) and proteins (“Greens”) provide most of the energy for the initial, rapid stages of decomposition. When the more resistant materials, such as lignin and cellulose (found in plant tissues), become the main food sources, the activity in the pile will slow down. Less heat will be produced, and the temperature falls, the compost will continue to stabilize slowly.

If temperatures are monitored, use this as a method of compost pile management. If temperatures surpass 140°F, the pile should be turned to cool it off. Extremely high temperatures can kill many beneficial organisms. If the pile does not reach at least 120°F, more nitrogen or water may be needed. Cold weather can also prevent the pile from heating. Piles that give off strong ammonia smells contain too much nitrogen, and may need more high-carbon ingredients.

The compost will be finished when the pile cools off and decreases to about one-third of its original volume (depending on the original ingredients). It will be dark, crumbly, and have an earthy odor. The temperature usually will be within 10°F of ambient air temperature. Unfinished compost can be “phototoxic”, meaning that it introduces toxic material into the plant, and results in death or impairment of the plant. This phototoxicity occurs especially to seedlings and newly established plants. Therefore, compost must be allowed to decompose thoroughly before use.

REMEMBER COMPOST JUST HAPPENS.
A LOW-INPUT AND SLOW COMPOSTING PILE MAY SUIT YOUR NEEDS.


Avoiding Pests
Given a comfortable, or even nourishing environment, rodents and other
animals may be attracted to compost piles. The
chances of this are greatly
reduced when piles are maintained,
are actively composting, and the
surrounding area kept clean.
Using some type of enclosed composting
unit may help the
”low-input composter” on all these points.

In urban areas, raccoons and rats are probably the most undesirable pests. In a hospitable environment with plenty of food, they can multiply very quickly and can become disease transmitters. Therefore, it is crucial to keep high-protein and fatty food wastes out of the compost pile in areas where pests may be a problem. Meat and fish scraps, bones, cheeses, butter, and other dairy products should be excluded. Remember though, any free source of food wastes can attract pests.

Many flies, including houseflies, can spend their larval phase as maggots in compost piles. To control their numbers, kitchen scraps must be covered with finished compost or an equal amount of “Browns.” See the previous section on Food Waste for more tips on avoiding pests.

Troubleshooting
The solutions to most compost problems are often fairly simple. (The COMPOST TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE at the bottom of this web page explains how to trouble shoot common compost problems.)


Section 3
Guidelines for Constructing a Compost Pile
Step 1

♦ Collect enough material to create a 1-cubic-yard pile. The material should be the right proportion to approximate a 30:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio.

♦ Chop or shred any coarse materials to increase their surface area.

♦ Start the pile with a 4- to 6-inch layer of “Browns” (high C:N ratio materials).

Step 2

♦ Add a 4- to 6-inch layer of “Greens” (low C:N ratio materials). Add additional nitrogen if needed. Possible nitrogen sources were discussed in the “Additives” section of Section 2. Manure is another source of nitrogen.

♦ Vegetative kitchen wastes should be added in this layer. If very low C:N ratio materials, such as grass clippings, are used, layers less than 4 inches thick may be appropriate.

♦ If food wastes are added, an additional thin layer of soil, sawdust, leaves, straw, or compost should be added to absorb odors.

Step 3

♦ Consider the porosity of the mixture. If dense materials, such as manure or wet leaves,
are used, wood chips, straw, or other dry, bulky material
should be added to improve the
porosity. The thickness of the layers will
depend on the C:N ratio of the materials being used.

♦ Mix the layers.


Step 4

♦ Conduct a squeeze test to gauge the moisture content of the compost.

♦ Add water until squeezing a handful will yield one or two drops of water. Adding too much water may leach out nutrients.

Step 5

♦ Continue alternating and mixing until the pile is 3 or 4 feet high.


Section 4
Using Compost

Compost can enrich flower and vegetable gardens and improve soil around trees and shrubs. It can also be used as a soil amendment for houseplants and planter boxes, or as a lawn top-dressing when screened. While most compost will greatly improve soils for plants, unfinished compost, or compost resulting from anaerobic (without air) decomposition, can contain acids or alcohols that can harm seedlings or sensitive plants.

Benefits of Compost

Compost improves the structure of soil. When mixed with a sandy soil, compost holds moisture and inorganic minerals. Compost particles hold soil together, and give it a crumbly texture. The addition of compost increases the soil’s porosity so that plant roots can more easily penetrate it.

In heavy clay soil, compost particles bind with clay particles to form larger particles. Surface water can drain between the larger particles, while the compost portions hold moisture inside the particles for plant uptake. Surface layers of soil conditioned with compost retain water better, and resist surface crusting and erosion.

Compost attracts earthworms and provides them with food, so they breed rapidly. The tunnels that earthworms create aerate the soil and improve drainage, and the earthworms’ burrowing brings up minerals from the subsoil, making them available to plants. Earthworms contribute to good soil structure. They coat soil particles with humus, and stimulate the growth of fungi that bind the soil particles together.

Although compost is considered a soil conditioner, rather than a fertilizer, it contains both plant nutrients and essential trace elements. Some chemical fertilizers release elements so quickly that rain can leach them away before plants derive much benefit. In compost, most of the nitrogen and phosphorous are held in organic form and released slowly. The nutrients in compost are therefore available throughout the growing season.

Current research by several plant pathologists indicates that incorporation of specific types of compost into soil will suppress several soil born diseases on crops such as turf grass, peas, beans, and apples. This research may have important implications
for compost use in coming years.

Application

Compost is usually applied annually. The thickness of compost application is determined by the landscape use, as indicated in Table 5. The best time to dig compost into a garden bed is during preparation of the bed for planting. If only a small amount of compost is available, it can be incorporated in the seed furrow, or a handful can be added to each transplant hole of annual or perennial plants. Large quantities can be used to transplant trees or shrubs or to renovate or replace a lawn. Compost is also an excellent top-dressing around flower and vegetable plants, shrubs, and trees.

Table 5
COMPOST APPLICATION GUIDELINES

LANDSCAPE USE APPROXIMATE RATE
(1 BS/1,000 SQ. FT.)
COMMENTS
Lawn and athletic field
establishment
3,00 to 6,00
(1 to 2 inches)
Incorporate into top 4 to 6
inches of soil
Lawn top-dressing   400 to 800
(1/8 to ¼ inch)
Broadcast uniformly on
grass surface
Shrub and tree
maintenance
200 to 400
(1/16 to ¼) inch
Work into soil or use as a
mulch
Container mix   Not more than 1/3 by
volume
Blend with perlite,
vermiculite, sand, or bark
Source: USDA publication ARM-NE-6, August

For general soil enrichment, the soil should be turned thoroughly, and compost mixed with the top 4 to 6 inches. Mixing fresh clippings with compost provides additional nitrogen for plants and makes an excellent mulching material. Care must be taken when incorporating compost around plants to avoid injuring plant roots growing near the surface. Compost as surface mulch (or top-dressing) provides nutrients that will gradually work their extremes and erosion caused by hard rain.

               Compost requirements for a given area can be
                   calculated by noting that 3.1 cubic yards, or 67
                   bushels, of compost are needed to cover
                   1,000 square feet with a 1-inch-deep layer of
                   compost.

               
Compost applied to lawns must be finely
                    ground, so that the grass is not smothered.
                    One way of applying the compost is to use an
                    aerator to slice up the sod. A 1/8-inch to 1/4-
                    inch covering of fine compost should be
                    applied.


A rake or a rotary mower should be used to distribute the compost into the crevices. Compost applied in this manner will provide the grass roots with moisture and nutrients and prevent soil compaction.

          Fine-textured compost can also be used in
            potting mixture formulations. No more that
            one-quarter to one-third, by volume, of the
            potting mix should be compost; higher
            levels can result in excess nutrient levels.
            Special care must be taken when using
            compost for starting seedlings. While
            recent research indicates that some wellaged
            compost can help prevent dampingoff
            disease of seedlings, fresh compost
            may be phytotoxic and should not be used.




Compost containing brownish bits of stems and stalks is still undergoing decomposition. Such compost should be screened before it is applied to lawns or used in potting mixes. Screening will produce a sifted, smoother soil. A simple screen can be made with ½-inch hardware cloth and a wooden frame.

Additional web resources:
http://compost.css.cornell.edu/Composting_homepage.html
http://www.nyccompost.org/how/index.html
http://www.howtocompost.org


COMPOST TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

Problem  Possible Causes Solution        
Rotten Odor Excess moisture
(anaerobic conditions)

Compaction, or poor
aeration (anaerobic
conditions)
Turn pile, or add dry, porous material, such as sawdust, wood chips, or straw

Turn pile, or make pile smaller
 
Ammonia Odor Too much nitrogen
(lack of carbon)
Add high carbon material such as
sawdust, wood chips, or straw
Slow Decomposing
Pile
Pile too small

Insufficient moisture

Poor aeration

Lack of nitrogen

Cold weather
Make pile bigger or insulate sides

Add water while turning pile

Turn pile

Mix in nitrogen sources such as grass clippings or manure

Increase pile size, or insulate pile with an extra layer of material such as straw
High Pile
Temperature
(>140°F)
Pile too large

Insufficient ventilation
Reduce pile size

Turn pile
Pests:
Dogs and Cats
Raccoons
Insects
Presence of meat scraps or fatty food
waste
Remove meat and fatty foods from pile. Cover with a layer of fresh compost, soil or sawdust, or build an animal-proof compost bin, or turn pile to increase temperature

Bury all food waste among brown materials or active compost